Beans and Greens Farm
Farmstands NH

 

Annuals & Perennials at Beans & Greens Farm, Gilford NH

Passion Flower

Here at Beans & Greens Farmstand we take pride in presenting to you a large selection of plants grown with care and attention in an effort to offer you the best quality available!  The following alphabetical list includes most of what we offered for the 2009 season and the photos give some examples....mostly varieties that are either new to us this season or just real nice! Soon we will pop up some new items for the 2010 season!
NH bark mulch ~ Put the finishing touch on your yard with awesome NH bark mulches - available by the yard!  Local delivery available.
When to plant ~
So many of you ask, “can I plant these yet?”  Don’t plant till the end of the month of May….. unless you pre-warm the soil and provide special protection.  Most annual seeds can be planted after the middle of the month, like nasturtium seed if the ground temps are near 60.  Wait till the end of the month to direct-seed basil and other tender plants.  Summer-flowering bulbs like glads and cannas can be planted in mid-May, but wait till later for tender ones like dahlias.
What about my soils… ~
Have your soils tested if you are unsure of the quality/nutrient content of your garden.  There is a great soil testing service available through the UNH Cooperative Extension office in Laconia.  Add compost or natural/organic fertilizers to your soils.  If you live in Gilford…you have access to a great compost pile that is at the Recycle Center off of Lily Pond Road.  Continue to fertilize annuals during the summer with liquid fertilizers……on a regular schedule for best results! Those that grow in full sun require feeding every couple of weeks. Plants in partial shade, especially compact ones, need fertilizer less often.  Attend the free veggie gardening workshop at Beans & Greens! Look for info on our Events link!

Hanging baskets/containers ~
You can put hanging baskets or containers outside earlier, but only those planters and hangers that are light enough for you to move inside if frost threatens.  Hanging baskets, etc. received as Mother’s Day gifts will probably not be tough enough to stay outside on cold nights or windy, cold spring days!!  Remember – even plants suffer from chill factors from wind!   Impatiens, begonias, and other warm-weather plants cannot tolerate cold nights at all. Containers are a breed of their own because of the concentration of plants in a limited space – we also recommend using light soil-less mixes for container plantings.  Watch what you buy, as some are available with fertilizer already incorporated into the soil!  Containers in full sun do best with slow-release fertilizer at time of planting and again in mid-summer, in addition to regular liquid feed. Very vigorous plants like trailing petunias love fertilizer and benefit from weekly applications or even more often in some cases.  Attend the free workshop at Beans & Greens! Look for info on our Events link!

Perennials:
Of course perennial care also starts with your soils and fertilizers…so refer to the section above pertaining to soils and then read on…

Newly-planted perennials should not be fertilized until they have established themselves well and sent their roots off in search of nutrients.  Fertilize established plantings with organic fertilizer, aged manure, compost, or with synthetic 5-10-5 or 5-10-10.  Refer to online guides for suggestions and recommendations on dividing perennials you already have…one great website with an easy to use chart:  http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/extras/pdf/60dividing.pdf
A few particulars…roses ~  if you have questions about cutting back, pruning, preventing pests/diseases or fertilizing them, refer to: http://gardening.about.com/od/rose1/a/RosePruning.htm 
Most asked question from the last summers….what can I do about the beetle that is destroying my lilies?

Who are they…what do they look like? The adult beetle is bright scarlet red, with black legs, head, antennae and undersurface. It is 1/4" to 3/8" long and is a strong flyer. The beetle reportedly will squeak if squeezed gently (however, few gardeners are willing to be gentle to this beetle). The adult lays reddish-orange eggs which hatch into particularly unpleasant larvae, which look like 3/8" long slugs; colored orange, brown, yellow or green with black heads. The larvae cover themselves with their own excrement (known as a fecal shield) which apparently repels predators, including gardeners who are generally very reluctant to handle the larvae. The larvae eventually become fluorescent orange pupae.
Will they be here in spring?  The adult beetle overwinters in the soil or plant debris and emerges in early spring looking for food and a mate. After mating, the female lays eggs in lines on the underside of Lilium or Fritillaria leaves. Some damage is done by the adults at this time, but the major damage comes when the eggs hatch into larvae in 7-10 days. The larvae voraciously consume all leaves within reach and may then start on flower buds. This continues for 2 to 3 weeks, when the larvae then drop into the soil and begin to pupate. In another 2 to 3 weeks the adult beetles emerge to start eating again. This process occurs from early spring to mid-summer. Reportedly the beetles won’t mate and lay eggs until the next spring.
What should I do? First of all, if you’re in an infested area, avoid sending any lilies or other plants to anyone else, and carefully inspect any plants you receive.
Hand-picking should be the first level of control if possible. Constant vigilance and quick removal and disposal of beetles, eggs and larvae can control an infestation on a small number of plants. Make sure the critters are actually dead! If you squash them, don't leave the squashee in the garden. Some gardeners drop them into a can of water with vegetable oil on the top.
If you suspect the beetles may be lurking around your lilies but you don't see any, carefully dig in the top half inch of the soil - no deeper! They hide just under the surface, so be ready to get them when they pop out.
The adults are easily spooked when you try to pick them by hand, and if you "miss" them, they tend to drop to the ground where THEY LAND UPSIDE DOWN, and since their tummies are black, they effectively vanish. The suggestion was to place a light-colored cloth under the plant before you hand-pick in order to be able to see the nasty little things if they fall."

Vegetables ~ Attend the free veggie gardening workshop at Beans & Greens!  Look for info on our Events link!
Some cold-tolerant vegetables can go into the ground around mid-May, but they made need protection from the cold nights and soils should be warmed up by using plastic mulch or row covers.  These are considered cool weather crops:

  • Beets
  • Broccoli
  • Cabbage
  • Carrots
  • Cauliflower
  • Collards
  • Kale
  • Lettuce
  • Onions
  • Peas
  • Potatoes, Irish
  • Radishes
  • Spinach

The following are considered warmer weather crops and should not be attempted until the end of May…generally after Memorial Day in our area or after that last full moon (which is May 27th this year!)

  • Beans (bush, snap, pole and lima)
  • Cantaloupe
  • Corn
  • Eggplant
  • Okra
  • Sweet Potatoes
  • Tomatoes
  • Vine crops (includes cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, squash, watermelon, zucchini)

 Basil is about the last to go into the ground; June 1 is not too late for basil. Start a regular fertilizing schedule.

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

 

  1. Abutilon

  2. Ageratum

  3. Alyssum

  4. Angelonia

  5. Arctotis

  6. Argyranthemum

  7. Aster

  8. Bacopa

  9. Begonia – dragon wing

  10. Begonia – non stop

  11. Begonia - wax

  12. Bidens

  13. Brachycome

  14. Bracteantha

  15. Browallia

  16. Calibrachoa

  17. Celosia

  18. Centradenia       

  19. Chrysanthemum

  20. Chrysocephalum

  21. Cleome

  22. Cobaea

  23. Coleus

  24. Convolvulus   

  25. Cosmos

  26. Cuphea

  27. Cypress

  28. Dahlberg Daisy

  29. Dahlia

  30. Duranta   

  31. Datura

  32. Dianthus

  33. Diascia

  34. Dichondra

  35. Dracaena

  36. Dusty Miller

  37. Echinacea

  38. Euphorbia

  39. Euryops

  40. Fragaria

  41. Fuchsia

  42. Gaillardia

  43. Gaura

  44. Gazania

  45. Geranium - ivy

  46. Geranium - zonal

  47. Gerbera

  48. Glechoma

  49. Helianthus

  50. Helichrysum

  51. Heliotrope   

  52. Hibiscus

  53. Impatiens

  54. Ipomea

  55. Juncus

  56. Lantana

  57. Lindernia

  58. Lobelia

  59. Lophospermum

  60. Lotus

  61. Lysimachia

  62. Marigold

  63. Mimosa

  64. Mecardonia

  65. Mesembrianthemum

  66. Mirabilis

  67. Miscanthus

  68. Morning Glory

  69. Nasturtium

  70. Nemesia

  71. Nepeta

  72. New Guinea Impatiens

  73. Nicotiana

  74. Oplismenus

  75. Osteospermum

  76. Pansy

  77. Passiflora

  78. Pennisetum

  79. Pentas

  80. Perilla

  81. Petunia

  82. Phlox

  83. Plectranthus

  84. Portulaca

  85. Rosebud Impatiens

  86. Salvia

  87. Scaevola

  88. Scirpus

  89. Sedum

  90. Senecio

  91. Snapdragon

  92. Statice

  93. Stipa

  94. Stock

  95. Supertunia

  96. Sutera

  97. Thunbergia

  98. Torenia

  99. Verbena

  100. Vinca

  101. Viola

  102. Wave petunia

  103. Zinnia

1. Abutilon

5. Arctotis

11. Begonia bayou pink bicolor
15. Browallia Blue bells

18. Centradenia

20. Chrysocephalum

24. Convulvulus compact blue
25. cosmos hinomaru
29. Dahlia Pablo
28. Dahlberg daisy

37. Echinacea Big Sky Sundown
41. Fuchsia blacky

41. Fuchsia sunfilipe
44. Gazania tiger mix
42. Gaillardia Oranges & lemons

49. Helianthus music box
51. Heliotrope

57. Lindernia
59. Lophospermum

60. Lotus maculatus
 66. Mirabilis

68. Morning glory kniolas black
69. Nasturtium Empress of India

79. Pentas
80. Perilla

84. Portulaca grandiflora
87. Scaevola

93. Stipa Pony Tails
96. Sutera Blue

102. Petunia Tidal wave hot pink
103. Zinnia Benary's giant

 

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